French Valley

French Valley

Hike to Grey Glacier

Hike to Grey Glacier

Laguna Amarca

Laguna Amarca

Monday, December 19, 2011

Santiago, Chile

After a brief stint in customs (who knew you couldn't bring almonds into Chile?), and a crazy cab ride ( he tried to make us pay him $60 for a $20 ride), we embarked on our first adventure in South America.

A glance through the downtown blocks of Santiago reveals a mighty circle of mountains - the Andean peaks to the east, and a smaller coastal range to the west - that frames the Chilean capital... That's only if the smog miraculously clears (school kids even draw the sky a murky gray color). Santiago is loud and dirty, but also artsy, young and full of life. Or as our guide book says, "Santiago is a thriving metropolis, home to a third of Chile's population, but it is one if Chile's least popular tourist destinations."

We started our first morning off on a walking tour through downtown Santiago and the Bellavista neighborhood. We met in the Plaza de Armas which is the city's historic centre, each side bounded by interesting buildings. The 18th century Catedral Metropolitana stands facing east - as churches must. The north side is where you will find the early 19th century Palacio de la Real Audencia - home now to the Museo Historico Nacional - and the 18th century Town hall. There is an eclectic mix of characters who spend a portion of their day here: soap-box speakers and shoe shiners, charlatans and religious fanatics, garrulous old men playing chess and young couples embracing on park benches, streets photographers and artists hawking paintings. 

Next we made our way past the old congress building, the supreme court, and the Palacio La Moneda. The Palacio La Moneda is where the president of Chile resides. Because of recent student protests there was an army truck that shoots tear gas just parked on the corner next to the building. The protests are about student's discontent with lack of public universities and also about the social inequalities in general. Our guide told us we wouldn't be around for any protests because all the students are on holiday break (typical students : ) 

Our favorite part of the tour was eating lunch near Santa Lucia Hill. Materializing as if out of nowhere on the edge of the city's downtown limits, the lavishly landscaped and historically significant Cerro Santa Lucia is a triangular-shaped hilltop park. It is where Pedro de Valdivia, the conqueror of Chile, founded Santiago in 1540 for the crown of Spain. For centuries, the rocky hill was seen as more of an eyesore than a recreational area (the local Mapuche Indians called it "curse," until 1872, when 150 prisoners were put to work landscaping the hill and carving out walkways for everyone to enjoy.

We visited the colorful and chaotic Mercado Central (seafood market) and La Vega (fruit market). Chile's economy depends on the exportation of natural products such as fruits, vegetables, and seafood. The markets display everything the country has to offer. Lively and staffed by pushy fishmongers who artistically gut and fillet while you watch, the market displays every kind o fish and shellfish available alongside Chilean coast. At the fruit market I got a fresh watermelon juice, they tossed watermelon chunks into a blender with water and voila! 

Tonight we are meeting up with some friends from our day tour for drinks and salsa dancing!

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